Care guide

Natural stone is meant to be lived with. The pieces you own from Lomāe are designed to age, to take on the marks of use, and to settle into your home in the way only natural materials do. This guide is the practical version of that philosophy: how to look after a piece in a way that preserves what should be preserved, and accepts what should be accepted.

It is written for owners who want to do this themselves. If you are specifying for a project or caring for pieces in commercial use, the same principles apply but the cleaning frequency and sealing schedule will be different. Email hello@lomaehome.com for project-specific guidance.

On this page

The short version

If you have thirty seconds, this is what to know.

  • Dust with a dry soft cloth. Microfibre or cotton. Daily or weekly, as needed.
  • Wipe spills as they happen. Acid spills (wine, citrus, coffee, vinegar) need to come off quickly to prevent etching.
  • Keep alabaster dry. Never water, never soap, never solvents. Dry cloth only.
  • Travertine and marble can be cleaned with a barely damp cloth and a drop of pH-neutral soap. Dry afterwards.
  • Reseal travertine every twelve to eighteen months if the piece is in regular use.
  • Etches are different from stains. Etches are surface chemistry. Stains are absorbed material. They need different treatments.
  • Felt pads under bookends and weights if the piece sits on softer wood.

The rest of this page is the long version of those rules and what to do when something goes wrong.

Universal care principles

Every Lomāe piece, regardless of stone, follows three principles.

Stone is porous. Even polished, sealed stone has microscopic pores. Anything liquid you put on the surface has the opportunity to absorb. The faster you wipe it up, the less of it absorbs.

Stone is alkaline. All the stones we use (alabaster, travertine, and marble) are calcium-based. Acids react with calcium. This is why wine, citrus, vinegar, coffee and many commercial cleaners cause etching: the acid chemically dissolves a microscopic amount of the surface. Bases (alkalis) do not have this effect, which is why pH-neutral cleaners are safe and acidic cleaners are not.

Stone is harder than it looks but softer than it pretends. Polished stone reads as glass-like and indestructible. In fact most marble and travertine sits at Mohs hardness 3-4, which means it scratches from anything harder: knife blades, granite, quartz watch backs, ceramic. Alabaster is even softer at Mohs 2. None of these stones is dishwasher material, none of them is meant for cutting on, and all of them benefit from felt pads on the base.

These three principles explain everything else on this page.

Alabaster care

Alabaster is the most fragile of the stones we work with and the one most often damaged by well-meaning cleaning. The rules for alabaster are different from the rules for marble and travertine, and applying marble care to alabaster is the single most common way pieces get ruined.

What to do

  • Dust with a dry soft cloth. Cotton or microfibre. Daily or as needed.
  • Keep alabaster away from water sources. Not in kitchens, not in bathrooms, not on a windowsill where condensation forms.
  • Keep alabaster out of direct sunlight. Prolonged UV will not damage the stone, but heat draws moisture from the air, and alabaster absorbs moisture.
  • Use a candle only as designed. For The Vesper, that means a single tealight or small pillar candle, never multiple, never larger than 5cm diameter, never burning more than four hours unattended.

What not to do

  • Never use water. Alabaster is water-soluble over time. Even a damp cloth will, over many cleanings, slowly dissolve the surface.
  • Never use any commercial cleaner. Even pH-neutral cleaners contain enough moisture to be a problem.
  • Never use vinegar, citrus, or any acid. These will dissolve alabaster visibly in minutes.
  • Never seal alabaster. Sealers will not absorb evenly into the soft gypsum surface and will leave permanent marks.

If alabaster gets wet

Dry it immediately with a soft cloth and let it air dry in a cool, dry place for 24 hours. Small amounts of water will not cause visible damage, but repeated exposure accumulates and shows. If the piece has been submerged or had sustained contact with liquid, the surface may show a chalky residue when dry. This is mineral redeposition and unfortunately cannot be reversed.

Travertine care

Travertine is the workhorse of the Lomāe range and the easiest stone to care for, with one caveat: it is porous, and the porosity is a property of the material rather than a defect to be managed.

What to do

  • Dust with a dry soft cloth between proper cleans.
  • For a proper clean, use a barely damp cloth with one drop of pH-neutral soap (Castile soap or a dedicated stone cleaner) in a cup of warm water. Wipe gently, then dry immediately with a separate dry cloth.
  • Reseal annually for pieces in regular use, or every 18 months for pieces that are mostly decorative.
  • Wipe spills as they happen. Travertine, even sealed, will eventually stain from sustained spill contact.

What not to do

  • No acidic cleaners. Vinegar, lemon-based cleaners, bathroom descalers, and most kitchen cleaners contain acids that will etch travertine.
  • No abrasive cloths or scouring pads. They will scratch the sealed surface and accelerate wear of the seal.
  • No soaking. Do not run travertine under a tap or leave it in a sink full of water. The pores absorb water that takes a long time to evaporate.

If travertine gets a stain

Most fresh stains lift with a damp cloth and a drop of pH-neutral soap. If a stain has set, it may still come out with a poultice. See Restoring a dull or damaged piece.

Marble care

This section covers Crema Marfil, Calacatta Viola, and any other marble pieces in the Lomāe range. All marbles share care characteristics because they are all calcium carbonate stones; the main difference between Crema Marfil and Calacatta Viola is colour, not chemistry.

What to do

  • Dust with a dry soft cloth between cleans.
  • For a clean, use a barely damp cloth with one drop of pH-neutral soap in warm water. Dry immediately with a separate cloth.
  • Use coasters under glasses and cups. This is the single most useful habit for marble: it prevents almost all etching and most staining.
  • Wipe acid spills immediately. Wine, citrus, vinegar, coffee, and tomato-based foods all etch marble within minutes if not removed.
  • Reseal annually for pieces in regular use.

What not to do

  • No acidic cleaners, ever. This includes most "natural" or citrus-based cleaning products. Read labels.
  • No vinegar. Common DIY cleaning advice involves vinegar; it is the worst thing you can put on marble.
  • No magic erasers or melamine sponges. They are mildly abrasive and will dull a polished surface.

If marble gets etched

Etching is different from staining. The etch is a chemical mark, not absorbed material. Light etches sometimes buff out with a marble polish; deep etches need professional re-polishing. See Etches and stains, the difference for the full explanation.

Daily and weekly cleaning

The cleaning routine for any Lomāe piece is intentionally simple.

Daily. A pass with a dry soft cloth, if you do it. Most pieces do not accumulate enough dust to need daily attention, but a piece on an open shelf in a busy room benefits from a quick wipe.

Weekly. A proper clean for pieces in use. The procedure:

  1. Dust first with a dry cloth to remove loose particles. (Cleaning wet over loose dust grinds the dust into the surface.)
  2. Mix one drop of pH-neutral soap into a cup of warm water. Castile soap (Dr Bronner's unscented is widely available in NZ supermarkets and pharmacies) or a dedicated stone cleaner. Do not use dish soap, hand soap, or anything fragranced.
  3. Dampen a soft cloth in the solution, then wring it out until it is barely damp.
  4. Wipe the piece in slow, gentle passes. Do not scrub.
  5. Dry immediately with a separate clean dry cloth. Do not let the piece air dry, as evaporation can leave mineral spots.

Skip the soap entirely for alabaster pieces. Dry cloth only.

Monthly. Visual inspection. Look for early signs of dulling, ring marks, edge wear, or seal failure (most easily spotted on travertine — drip a few drops of water onto the surface; if it beads, the seal is intact; if it absorbs and darkens the stone, time to reseal).

Handling spills

Spills are when most pieces get damaged, because the reflex to wipe with whatever is closest causes more harm than the spill itself.

The universal rule: blot, do not wipe. Wiping spreads the liquid across more surface area. Blot with a dry cloth or paper towel pressed gently against the spill until no more transfers. Then clean with the procedure below.

Wine, coffee, dark juice. Blot immediately. If the spill is recent, a damp cloth (water only) is usually enough. If the colour has started to absorb, see the Restoring a dull or damaged piece section on poultices. On marble, also check for etching once the spill is cleaned, as the colour and the etch are two separate problems.

Citrus juice, vinegar, salad dressing. Blot immediately, then rinse with a barely damp cloth (water only) to dilute remaining acid. Dry thoroughly. On marble, expect a small etch; check after drying.

Oil, butter, cosmetics, makeup remover. Blot immediately. Oil is more dangerous than water because it absorbs faster and dries harder. Use a dry cloth, no water. If the stone is travertine and the oil has darkened the surface, a poultice (covered below) can lift it within a few days.

Water and water rings. On sealed marble and travertine, water rings indicate seal failure rather than damage to the stone itself. The ring will usually disappear within a few hours as the stone dries. If the ring persists after 24 hours, the piece needs resealing. Water on alabaster needs immediate drying.

Ink and dye. Blot, do not rub. Then leave the piece and contact us at hello@lomaehome.com before trying anything else. Ink and dye need specific solvent treatments that depend on the stone and the ink type, and the wrong treatment makes the stain worse.

Wax (from candles). Let it cool and harden completely. Scrape gently with a plastic card (not metal). Any residue lifts with a poultice or a gentle wipe.

Etches and stains, the difference

These two words get used interchangeably and they should not be. They are different problems with different fixes.

A stain is a colour change in the stone caused by a substance absorbing into the pores. The substance is in the stone. The treatment is to draw the substance back out. Poultices do this.

An etch is a dull or rough spot caused by an acid chemically dissolving a microscopic amount of the calcium carbonate at the surface. The stone itself has been altered. No amount of cleaning will remove an etch, because there is nothing on the stone to clean. The fix is to re-polish the surface.

How to tell them apart. Look at the affected spot in raking light (light at a low angle across the surface). A stain is the same texture as the rest of the surface, just a different colour. An etch is the same colour as the rest of the surface, just a different texture (matte where the rest is polished, rough where the rest is smooth).

A spill of red wine on marble usually produces both: an etch from the acid, and a stain from the pigment. Treat them in order. Pull the stain first with a poultice, then re-polish the etch.

How to make a poultice

A poultice is an absorbent paste applied over a stain to draw the substance back out as the paste dries.

For most stains, mix talcum powder or baking soda with hydrogen peroxide (3%) into a thick paste. Apply about 6mm thick over the stain. Cover with cling film, taped at the edges. Leave for 24 to 48 hours. The paste will dry and pull the stain into itself as it does. Remove the paste, rinse the area with a barely damp cloth, dry.

For oil-based stains, use baking soda mixed with acetone instead of hydrogen peroxide. Same procedure.

For specific stains or stubborn cases, contact us. Poultices are gentle but not infallible, and a professional stone restorer has options we do not.

Sealing

Sealing is a protective treatment that fills the microscopic pores of stone and slows the rate at which liquids absorb. It is not a permanent layer and not a barrier; it is a delay.

When to seal. Travertine and marble pieces in regular use benefit from annual resealing. Pieces that are mostly decorative can go 18 to 24 months. Alabaster is not sealed.

What to use. A penetrating, water-based stone sealer designed for natural calcium-carbonate stones. In New Zealand, brands available at hardware stores and tile retailers include Aqua Mix, StoneTech, and Lithofin. Avoid topical sealers (which sit on top of the stone) and avoid silicone-based sealers (which discolour over time).

How to seal.

  1. Clean the piece thoroughly using the procedure in Daily and weekly cleaning. Let it dry completely (24 hours minimum).
  2. Apply the sealer to the surface using a clean lint-free cloth. Work in small areas, keeping the surface wet with sealer for 5 to 10 minutes.
  3. Wipe off any excess that has not absorbed after 10 minutes. Excess sealer left on the surface will leave a film as it cures.
  4. Let the piece cure for 24 to 72 hours before use.

How to know if it worked. Drip a few drops of water onto the sealed surface. The water should bead up rather than absorb into the stone. If the water absorbs and darkens the surface, the seal did not take, and you can apply a second coat after waiting 24 hours.

Restoring a dull or damaged piece

Light dulling and minor surface wear can be addressed at home. Significant damage, deep etching, cracks, or chipping should go to a professional.

Dull polished marble. A marble polishing powder (tin oxide is the traditional choice; commercial products like MB-11 are easier to find) applied with a damp cloth and gentle pressure will restore polish to lightly etched or dulled marble. Test on an unseen area first. The technique is slow circular motion, not pressure. Stop when the surface returns to gloss; over-polishing leaves swirl marks.

Dull travertine. Travertine is generally not polished to a high gloss in the first place; most travertine surfaces are honed (matte smooth) or natural-faced (open pores). A light buff with a soft cloth, dry, is usually enough to restore the honed finish. Heavier dulling needs professional restoration.

Light scratches. Surface scratches on marble and travertine can sometimes be reduced with a stone-grade polishing compound and a soft cloth. Deep scratches need professional refinishing.

Cracks. Hairline cracks should be assessed by a professional before any treatment. Some cracks are structural and stabilising them needs the right adhesive; others are surface-only and may be left as character.

Chipping at edges. Small edge chips can sometimes be polished smooth so the chip becomes part of the piece's character. Larger losses need professional restoration with stone epoxy.

When to seek a professional

The DIY-able cases are: dust, weekly cleaning, fresh spills, light dulling, sealing, and most poultice work.

Anything beyond that is worth a phone call to a stone restoration specialist before you try a home fix. The cases we recommend professional help for:

  • Deep etches that have not lifted with home polishing
  • Set stains that have resisted two rounds of poultice
  • Visible cracks of any size
  • Chips, breaks, and missing pieces
  • Surface damage from inappropriate cleaners (etching from acidic cleaners, hazing from solvents, discolouration from sealer error)
  • Pieces that are heirlooms or have high sentimental value, where the cost of a professional restoration is small compared to the risk of a failed DIY attempt

For New Zealand customers, we can recommend stone restoration specialists in Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch on request. Email hello@lomaehome.com.

Frequently asked questions

Can I put my Lomāe piece in the dishwasher?

No. None of our pieces are dishwasher-safe. The heat, the detergent, and the prolonged water contact are all destructive to natural stone. Even the travertine and marble pieces, which can handle a damp cloth, will be damaged by a dishwasher cycle.

Can I use Windex or general cleaners on stone?

No. Most general-purpose cleaners contain ingredients that are unsafe for natural stone — typically acids (citrus, vinegar) or strong alkalis (ammonia). Use either a pH-neutral stone cleaner from a hardware store, or warm water with a single drop of unscented Castile soap.

Why does my marble have a dull mark where I had a glass of wine?

That is an etch, not a stain. The wine's acidity has dissolved a microscopic amount of the marble surface, leaving a slightly duller patch. Light etches sometimes buff out with marble polishing powder; deeper ones need professional re-polishing. The colour has gone, the texture remains.

How often do I need to reseal travertine?

For pieces in regular daily use (a vessel on a coffee table where things get set on it), every 12 months. For pieces that are mostly decorative (a sculpture on a shelf), every 18 to 24 months. Test by dripping water on the surface: if it beads, the seal is fine. If it absorbs and darkens the stone, time to reseal.

Can I use my Lomāe piece for food service?

Yes, with sensible limits. Sealed travertine and marble are food-appropriate for dry serving and brief contact — cheese, charcuterie, crackers, bread, fruit, nuts. This is what travertine and marble platters have been used for in homes for centuries. What they are not designed for: cutting on (a knife will scratch the seal), sustained wet contact (olives in brine, oily dressings, citrus juice) which can stain the pores, or hot dishes straight from the oven. Wipe spills as they happen, hand-wash with a damp cloth after use, and the piece will serve happily for years. Alabaster pieces should not contact food at all.

What if my piece arrives chipped or cracked?

Photograph the piece in its original packaging before unwrapping further, and email hello@lomaehome.com within 48 hours. Most damage in transit can be resolved with a replacement or refund within five working days. See the Returns page for the full process.

Can I refinish a Lomāe piece myself?

Light maintenance (polishing minor dulling on marble, refreshing a honed travertine surface) is doable at home with the right products and patience. Heavier work — deep etches, scratches, cracks, chips, recutting edges — should go to a professional. The cost of professional restoration is usually less than the cost of a botched DIY attempt.

My piece has changed colour. Is that normal?

Natural stone can shift slightly in colour over time, especially with UV exposure. Yellow travertine fades very gradually under direct sunlight; cream marble can develop a subtle patina over years. These changes are part of the material's life rather than damage. If a colour change is sudden, localised, or comes with a textural change, something else is going on — usually a stain, an etch, or a sealer failure. Contact us if you are not sure.

Do I need to do anything special for the first few weeks after I get the piece?

Not really. New pieces arrive sealed (travertine and marble) or finished (alabaster) and are ready to use. The one habit worth establishing early is the coaster habit: getting into the routine of using coasters under glasses and cups from day one prevents most of the etching and staining we get asked about.

What is a poultice, and how do I make one?

A poultice is an absorbent paste applied over a stain to draw the substance back out as the paste dries. Mix talcum powder or baking soda with 3% hydrogen peroxide into a thick paste, apply 6mm thick over the stain, cover with cling film, leave 24 to 48 hours, remove, rinse, dry. Full procedure in Restoring a dull or damaged piece.

How long will a Lomāe piece last with proper care?

Indefinitely. The stones we use have been quarried and worked for at least a hundred years, and in some cases two thousand. The pieces in your home will outlast everything else you own, provided they are not dropped, cleaned with the wrong product, or left in conditions they were not designed for.

Questions about your piece

If you have a care question that this page does not answer — a specific spill, an unusual mark, a piece that does not look right — email hello@lomaehome.com with a photograph. We answer care questions personally, usually within a working day.

For broader questions about our materials and how they age, see the Materials page.